Absolutely. Cut all those extra shoots and branches down to the trunk and then paint it with Bonide Pruning Sealer or equivalent, then wrap it with an opaque tree wrap, not burlap, something with wound protection in mind.

Then you want to fuse the centermost shoots/branches by lashing them together; I like anodized aluminum wire (bonsai wire) for this because it’s easy to work with and allows a little stretch, you can use zip ties as well.

Here’s an article that touches on the technique. See the part about thickening branches. Basically, you’re going to grow the branches so close to each other that in a few seasons they are just one branch.

Bonsai training is the ticket here, for your research. Plenty of people do bonsai hydrangea and someone have probably written about fusion techniques specific to hydrangea.

Depending on where you are, after that massive prune, it might not be the right season to cut it back much further. You might want to cut all the branches outside of the center back by several more inches, so that they are all shorter then the center branches, and then do the remaining cutting and begin the fuse in winter.

Ymmv.

https://www.bonsaihunk.us/public_html/?tag=fusion

There’s also the opposite technique of trunk fusion, which is trunk splitting. You may find that once you get in there, there are several different plants that want to come apart. You can break them on their seams if’n you find seams, and then done proper trunk merge.

https://www.bonsaiempire.com/blog/trunk-fusion

Awesome setup.

I just throw mine together in a shelf for several weeks before planting season.

Grow up.

The smartest people I’ve ever met pause for at least five seconds before answering direct questions. Some for much longer. There’s a Supreme Court justice who I’m told pauses for like 25 seconds or more anytime she’s asked a question.

Hasbro.

This is disgusting.

Haha. That’s a good one. Don’t think I ever heard of that.

What is this?

It’s because he crossed state lines?

What if there were a far-right populist movement advocating online for murdering specific leftists and encouraging anyone who might act on it to do so, by also promising to nullify valid criminal charges for such murders and encouraging others to do the same?

You don’t see how in some places that might fall under accomplice liability? Encouragement plus shared intent equals accomplice. Don’t even need to take a step toward the criminal purpose, as with conspirator liability. Surprised you didn’t know that. Seems like you have room temp IQ.

Makes sense to me.

I’m presuming it’s well water because city water wouldn’t do that unless there was a major, widespread problem.

$200 is for the full array of tests. VOCs, heavy metals, bacteria. Good to get the full testing done at least once.

Is anyone drinking this water?

When is the last time it got tested?

You ought to do a send away test. It’s about $200 bucks on Amazon.

What’s the problem for you with nursing ?

Is it job insecurity or is it travel?

My understanding is that traveling nurses make very good money. Obviously there’s more to life than money though.

I’m sure you don’t have to leave medicine to make good money and have a different working arrangement. There are all sorts of alternative non-nursing jobs for nurses. How do you see there’s administration, insurance, consulting, or even just continuing to search for the situation that you want.

The question is not would it be more beneficial, it’s what do you want to do? Do you want to be a nurse at all? Did you rush into it because a guidance counselor told you it’s a great career path?

I have two friends in cyber security and I could not tell you what they do but they both seem to make very good money without working very hard, but they’ve both also been computer nerds since the 90’s.

Hamas stops Gaza having elections.

The West Bank has no water? If they have money to fire a thousand rockets a month at Israel, why not spend some of that on the water infrastructure?

Did it refund you after the chat?

I feel like I had this happen as well but the chat bot was smart enough to be like “this dude spends a fuck ton on Amazon and this item was only $12, I’ll just mark it received and get dude the money back.”

It’s just another way of processing food scrap and yard waste.

You don’t need to do anything special for raised beds if you want to have a ton of worms in them, except mulch the tops of the beds every spring and fall,.and occasionally dig a hole and dump in a bunch of uncomposted food waste. Add layers of straw, wood mulch, lawn clippings, whatever, leaf mulch. Worms will devour everything you put on it and turn it to castings.

Read up on windrow vermicomposting to get an idea of how the worms will literally just work their way down a row of food converting all of it to castings. Some people keep worms just in a heap in the middle of the yard, with nothing special except maybe covering with clear plastic over winter. The worm population will wax and wane based on how much food they have, and as long as the food and substrate doesn’t completely dry out.

I don’t think you should take up raised bed space to put in any kind of composting system unless you absolutely don’t have another place to compost. Kind of wastes the advantage of having raised beds if you’re not using them for your crops. I’d also suggest starting small, and scaling up after some experience.

As the worms munch, the food they eat goes through them and gets broken down. The worms are home to all sorts of good bacteria that help with breaking things down. That’s the idea, break things down so plants can use them, kind of like prechewing their food for them. I’m no expert. I ordered my worms online from Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm and they also have a ton of information on their site to help you get it going.

I sort of gave up on keeping worms after a few years. I just used a bin half buried in the ground. And every so often I would spread some of the worms around to the different garden beds on my property, or when I planted something new, or started a new compost bin or compost heap or whatever. They’re everywhere now, no point in raising them. All the beds are aerated, tilled, and plants growing well. That’s really what the worms and worm castings are for, is enriching the soil. Once your soil is good, if new waste accumulates, the worms that are there take care of it.

Like you can buy worm castings at the store as a soil additive, but if you already have good soil you would not buy worm castings to use just as fertilizer, you’d just buy whatever fertilizer you like. I guess worms are really best for conditioning soil. Part of the thing with raised beds is that you filled them! So they shouldn’t need soil conditioning unless they’ve been abandoned for a long time or if there’s been no crop rotation for a long time.

Really no downsides as far as I can think of, other than the time and effort of making sure they are fed and have enough water (if you’re using a mostly sealed bin as I was). Too much water is as bad as not enough. When it rains and you see worms come out, it’s not because they like the water and want to drink, it’s because their house is flooded and they don’t want to drown.

I don’t know, that’s some insight. Feel free to ask some specific questions.

Say a little bit about what you’re trying to get out of it and how much material you want to work with. What will you use the castings for?

I got into it a little but, just using a large plastic bin with some holes drilled in it, then half buried in the ground. Stocked it with worms and fed compostables into the bin.

The worms would die back in the winter significantly. I was more focused on seeding my land and all it’s gardens and compost piles with worms, not really on converting material. I found regular compost tumblers more efficient and faster, easier too.

In bonsai the masters say there is no such thing as an indoor plant. They mean it in terms of the amount of summer sun and winter cold/cool needed to sustain the natural annual cycle that every plant has; in other words, you can take any plant and keep it alive indoors for a while with artificial light, but if every day the light and temperature (and moisture) stay the same, the plant will die way sooner than it otherwise should. A lot of indoor bonsai people have plants that they will put in the fridge during winter or even bury underground, and even their easiest “indoor” tropical plants, they put outside in the dog days of summer and let them be bitten by one or two of autumn’s first cool nights, just to let it now what time it is.

OP would have attributed the flowers to the extra light, but did not, I assume, because the flowers are on the sun-facing side of the plant, along I’m sure with most of this season’s new vegetative growth.

The carbohydrates produced thanks to the extra light are used by the entire plant, so I think you’re right that it was likely the extra light that gave the plant enough vigor to push flowers.

I think to say that a type of plant is “fussy” and won’t flower if it’s rotated is not correct. Plants will move around on their own a significant amount, even in a matter of hours depending on the plant, to find sun, especially when it’s good, bright sun, especially plants with a vine form or epiphytes, they are used to falling down and having to grow upward again, they can completely invert their growth habit between nodes, meaning that if a bine breaks and flops over, the next new node will curl over and grow upright, and its new leaves will correctly face up. Whether a plant can lose the light, find it again, and still flower before the season ends mostly depends on whether they end up getting enough light before it’s too late. This can be measured in “growing degree days” and even more accurately, perhaps even predicting when a flower will bloom or when an insect will emerge down to the hour, by using your own measurements for sunlight exposure using a light meter.

Well, what is it?

I traveled to Burlington and it was utterly spectacular.