My chili pequin planted in the ground comes back each year in 8a, but it’s native here.

I see people selling seeds on places like etsy all the time. Problem is you’ll have to let them mature to sell them, which would inevitably be more getting in the yard and germinating.

Would native riparian plants planted directly into the pond be an option?

I just assume it’s people browsing all.

Look into a sub irrigated planter. It’s just a planter with a water reservoir inside it that let’s the plants have consistent moisture. They only have to be refilled about once a week in the peak of summer (weeks at a time of 100+ F with no rain) and as little as once a month in more mild weather.

This site has a ton of good information about them: https://albopepper.com/sips.php

Here’s how I built mine: Build the planter to be about 24 inches tall and line it with a pond liner. Put a few pieces of corrugated drain pipe in the bottom. You are better off with these having a little bit of space between them than being packed too tightly. You then need to add an over flow drain at the top level of the pipes, and at the opposite corner add a pvc fill tube. The site I linked above explains this better, including some videos if that’s your preferred format. Cover the pipe with peat moss and pack the moss down under and between the pipes. Fill the rest of the planter with potting mix mixed with more peat moss and vermiculite/perlite. Do not add organics like compost or top soil. The mix should drain extremely well and feel light.

The guy mentions that the planter is not good for perennials due to the risk of freezing, but I have had very good success with native perennials in my planter. I have a native hibiscus as the centerpiece and it is going great.

The whole landscape process is a learning experience. Don’t expect to have your dream yard in one season, just aim to improve it a bit each year. Good luck!

Same! I had to stop when all the caterpillars came, though. I didn’t want to accidentally step on one of the ones that sting.

Some of the no-mow native ground covers, like frogfruit if you’re in the southern US, actually get quite tall. We had a very wet spring and my frogfruit lawn got over twelve inches tall before I gave in and mowed it on the highest setting on my mower. I do have the same plant as filler in several beds, though, where it can get as tall as it wants.

The frogfruit would have eventually laid down a bit shorter once the extra moisture dried up, but it was getting to be quite the eye sore.

Could you possibly just detach the trellis from the fence and lean it away a bit? Talk to your neighbor and see if that might work. Removing the vines from the trellis will almost certainly damage them, and digging up the plants will cause even more damage.

Leave to where, though? Personally I would relocate the worm to the outdoor garden where I have seen plenty of worm friends rather than risk a pet hurting him when he decides to relocate. If the potted plant was being kept outdoors I would leave the worm in.

It’s pushing 90F here in 8a. The maps still call it 8b but we’ve seen 12F the past two years.

The real concern is root development. As long as you’re taking care of the new plants and watching for signs of drying out they should be fine in mild spring weather.

Does the pot feel lighter than it should? Does the pot have good drainage? If the answer to both is yes, you should let the pot sit in a container of water for several hours. Potting soil can dry out to the point where it is very slow to absorb water, meaning the water will run out the bottom of the pot before it has a chance to be absorbed.

If the pot does not have good drainage or it feels heavier than it should, it’s possible the soil has too much water in it. Correct the drainage issue and the extra water will fix itself.

I know what I’m asking is very subjective, but hopefully it makes sense. You can also stick a finger into the soil to the second knuckle to see how dry it is. Let us know what you find either way.

What is your goal? Are you trying to maintain these exact varietals for sentimental reasons? Or do you just want good tasting fruit?

Root stock is a legitimate concern. If the existing trees are clones grown on root stock, any new plants grown from cuttings may not do well. I say that because if the main plant were able to thrive without root stock, it likely would have been grown that way in the first place.

Once you clarify your goals we should be able to provide some suggestions.

You’re right about perlite. I’ve seen the yellowish spheres in other potting soil, though.

Perlite or similar soil additive. No need to remove them or worry.

If you have the time to do it, it’s absolutely the best and easiest way. It’s hard to postpone landscape projects, but doing them in the right season is setting up your project for success. Good luck, and don’t forget to take progress pictures!

Solarizing is the easiest way to do this, but it takes a lot of patience. Depending on your area you may need to start now to have your site ready for spring planting. Search for a guide on exactly how to do it, but basically you cover the grass in clear plastic to create a greenhouse effect that will kill the grass and any seeds. You water before putting down the plastic to encourage seeds to germinate. Once you’re done (four weeks minimum, more is better) you remove the plastic and plant your plants.

Depending on the type of grass you have, tilling may not be effective. It also may be very difficult if your area is as rocky as you say it is.

Another option is to use a shovel to dig up strips of sod and flip them over. This should be almost as effective as solarizing, but it’s much faster (no waiting) and much harder work.

Bulbs will come up just fine through a ground cover. Maybe test both ways for a season and see which you and the plants prefer?

Are you asking if the ground cover will prevent seeds from other plants from germinating? Yes, definitely.

Or are you asking if the ground cover will prevent the other plants from growing normally? No, probably not.

Just be sure that your ground cover and your other plants want similar amounts of light and water and it should be fine.