Optionally, what would you have wanted to know before you bought one?
Thanks!
Edit: Hey, thank you all very very much for your comments and suggestions, I really appreciate. I will most likely save up more and get the 1TB OLED model rather than the LCD model I was initially planning on. A couple of reasons for that, one, I am not good with electronics and I’d probably screw something up putting a new storage drive in. And two this thing will most likely be a permanent replacement for my old gaming laptop, which at this point is more than 10 years old, and seems to be on its last legs (I installed Linux on it, which was a struggle, but that is probably on me rather than Linux or the computer being at fault).
Anyway, I appreciate everyone’s responses and thanks for helping a gal out!
Don’t buy it for AAA games. It thrives on AA and indie games, but AAA games will suck the battery like crazy (on the original model, at least) and you’ll be lucky to get 60 frames on any AAA games from the last few years.
30fps locked is perfectly reasonable for many games. I seriously don’t understand some people’s obsession with needing 60fps or higher at all times. A Steam Deck is a compromise on many levels, it’s not a gaming PC, so adjusting expectations is perfectly reasonable.
To each their own. Personally, I can’t stomach it for 3D games. 2D / isometric is a different story, but most games from those perspectives don’t have the hardware requirements of 3D games.
I dunno, I grew up on the earliest 3D consoles and just never have had an issue with 30fps. Sure, when available, 60fps is great, but even that’s the limits of what I’ll push a device to do. People that push for 144fps+ for a turn-based game just confuse me honestly.
Tons of PS1 games ran at 60fps
(Sorry for the reddit link):
https://www.reddit.com/r/psx/comments/16onvdj/which_psx_games_ran_at_60_fps/
Yeah, hard disagree.
With the 30fps being good enough?
Yeah
modern AAA but ps4 era works like 60-70% of the time and older than that youre usually goated too!
That it’s awesome
It comes with a free Portal-universe game that teaches you how all the controls work. It’s fun. Play it immediately. It will teach you that the thumbsticks are capacitive. Turns out that’s a useless feature, so just get some nice thumbstick caps that make them larger, more rubbery, and more comfortable.
I highly recommend a 180° USB-C adapter to use the power cord while playing. It makes the cord angle down instead of up, which feels more natural. Plus, I feel like it would be gentler on the cord and USB-C port if the cord got tugged hard when plugged into an adapter instead of directly into the Steam Deck.
Plus, with a 180° adapter, you can keep the Deck in it’s case while charging. Normally you can’t do this because the top of the Steam Deck faces the hinge of the case. But the adapter fits in the case OK and reroutes the wire downward. It definitely raises the deck up slightly, but you can still zip the case halfway closed. I do this because I live in a very small apartment with a high chance of knocking or spilling something onto the Steam Deck if I were just to leave it laying around.
Fun fact: the touch pads don’t actually click when you press them like a button, but you will swear they do! The haptic feedback mechanism is incredibly good.
Major Overheating Issue
I don’t know how this is not a more widely complained-about problem.
I paired a Nintendo Switch Pro Controller to my deck, played a game, then put the deck in its case while asleep. (You tap the power button and the deck goes to sleep.) Well, apparently, “Wake on Bluetooth” is enabled by default and you can’t turn it off! So, I threw my Nintendo Switch controller in a drawer, and of course a button got hit. It woke up my Steam Deck in it’s case. I had a game running, so the Steam Deck starts rendering the game and creating a lot of heat that is just being circulated within the case by the fan. The Deck got insanely hot!
I noticed it sometime later only because I heard it make a sound. When I took it out, I used my infrared thermometer to measure the back of the deck, and it was over 140° F. Uncomfortable to touch! It would have sat there for hours like that if I hadn’t noticed.
Solution: I had to install the Decky Loader plugin system in order to install a plugin that disables Wake on Bluetooth. I still don’t see any way to disable it without using Decky. Decky is pretty great though, and it has tons of cool plugins. Of course, you could also just turn off Bluetooth before putting this Steam Deck in its case, but if you forget, it’ll be a problem.
You can disable wake from bluetooth in system settings now, and you can even disable it per device.
Also 180 degree USB-C connectors are really nice, but they actually aren’t USB-C spec compatible and can potentially burn up or other issues. Basically when you use a USB-C cord, there’s 3 way communication where the charger and cord both report to the deck what voltages and amperage amounts they support, and then the Deck decides what to charge at. The 180 degree connector isn’t part of this communication, and is invisible to the rest of the system. If it’s not able to support the charge rate of the other devices, it can burn up and potentially destroy your deck and cable.
Might be a minority opinion but I think the capacitive thumbsticks are awesome. They have been super handy every time I brew up a controller config that uses the gyro.
Can you give an example of how you use them?
Usually you use them to enable gyro, and automatically disable it when you aren’t touching one of the sticks. Part of this is it lets you set the deck down without the gyro going crazy from movement, but the biggest part is it lets you “reset” your position. When using gyro aiming it’s easy to get the deck turned in an uncomfortable position, and all you have to do is lift your thumbs off the stick for a moment, reposition, and go back to playing.
In comparison, when using gyro aiming on systems without capacitive sticks, you usually need a camera reset button (like Splatoon) or need to make gyro aiming only available when holding down an “aim” button (like LT).
You could also use capacitive sticks to change other controls. Some games have awkward menu controls, especially when using steam input to simulate keyboard keys. In games like this, you can have the controls normal for playing when touching the left thumbstick, but when you swap your thumb to the dpad instead it switches to “menu mode” with different binds to navigate menus easier.
Sleep takes battery even if nothing is running. It’s big so if you will play only steam deck for a while after that every controller would feel small and nintendo switch would feel like baby toy.
Simple stuff to prevent you from panicking early on:
- Say you’re playing docked with an external controller and you put your steam deck to sleep while playing a a game. After it wakes up the next time you use it, 99% of the time, the game won’t respond to the controller input anymore. You need to reorder the controllers in the menu and it’ll come good again. Only in extremely rare cases have I had to restart the game.
- Less so now, but early on there were definitely cases where I had to power cycle the steam deck because something went wrong. Even if the screen is black for a bit, just give it some time.
- There’s years of tips/tricks or software mods that people have collected that may/may not be relevant anymore. Just play it for a week or two before tweaking things. For instance, I love Decky loader for adding things like protondb support and how long to beat times to the library… but you definitely don’t need it.
If you do decide to play docked, Sony Dualshock 4 or Dualsense 5 controllers are great because they have touchpads. This makes them super useful in games with half implemented controller support (i.e. the games work fine but the menu controls still use a mouse) or using desktop mode from the couch. They also have gyro support too.
I haven’t had many issues with PC usb-c hubs… but all hubs are created differently. If you care about 4K output, VRR, HDR or anything above basic usage, I found a dedicated jsaux docking station works pretty well (note: I never considered the official dock as it was only officially available in my country well after I already had a steam deck).
The steam deck is somewhat old (2022) and VERY VERY VERY BULKY <-- I have difficulties holding it in my small hands
Go to a store and check out similar products from other brands to see if you like the grip
Also, only buy linux based/ linux compatible consoles
The steam deck is an excellent product, with great repairability, amazing software and the touchpads are a godsend. But if you are never going to use it because of it’s size, alternatives are worth considering
If you decide to go with the deck, buy a silicone case for it. The JSAUX one is great, albeit only available in black as far as I know
About this super handy Kick stand
You might want to upgrade your couch & TV. If you’re used to playing at a desktop, it doesn’t feel right to play a handheld in your gaming chair. You can plop down in a big comfortable couch, put on a TV show or movie in the background, and grind through whatever game you like that runs decent.
It’s good for when someone else wants to watch a tv show you don’t care about, so you pop out your deck and spend time together doing separate things that interest you.
Remember your admin password if you mess around on the Linux side.
Yeah I love hanging out with the family while I casually play something.
Controversial opinion, but if cost isn’t an issue then a steam deck isn’t a great buy. It fills a niche for sure but honestly a gaming laptop with a gamepad is 100% more useful IMHO.
I struggled to find it anymore portable than a laptop is and worse performance/screen/utility in almost every measurable way.
Agree 100%. Steam Deck is great for people with no money who still want to get into PC gaming. Everyone else should build a PC or buy a laptop.
Hard disagree
It’s great for mobile and couch gaming. Not comparable to a laptop and controller
Hard agree with this as someone with a disability. Though I actually don’t have a Steam Deck, but a Lenovo Legion Go running Bazzite. I think that’s the true “cost isn’t an issue” upgrade, as the newer Z1E chip is definitely an upgrade in terms of games that will run well, and the 1440p display (which I generally run at 1920p) is much nicer to look at. Just my two cents.
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If you are planning to buy steam DOCK, don’t. It has been a complete shitshow.
Updates fails dozen times before finishing without crashing. Sometimes you need to disconnect power, so it switches to deck power for the update process even start and same trick works, if the dock refuses to see the external displays. Connect power back after it spasms in the right direction.
30 euro garbage from local supermarket works better.
I have to say that the steam dock never gave me a single issue with a constant use since around launch, so your experience may vary.
Yeah. Same for me. I do have issues from time to time that my monitor isn’t recognized, then I have to disconnect and even switch off power to the display completely before trying again.
But that happens maybe once every few weeks.
No problems with mine in the past 4 months since I got it.
Look into framegen. It actually works quite well and can make the difference between 40 fps not stable to 60 fps stable. It will introduce some artifacts, but on this screen size they are quite negligible.
Omg these stupid posts are plaguing Lemmy now
we need more posts like this instead
The multi user experience is really bad if you share any games
If you aren’t familiar with Linux I would spend a little bit of time in a BASH shell playing around with commands. You really don’t want to be stuck in a scenario where your steam deck cannot boot, for some random reason, and all of sudden you know no commands to troubleshoot with or a brief idea on the structure of the filesystem.
I don’t own a steam-deck personally but I always recommend this advice for anyone moving into the Linux ecosystem.
Best of luck.
Edit: Seems like SteamOS is on a whole other level of stable, while I still recommend this advice it certainly isn’t mandatory. Thanks to others who provided feedback.
Pfft. I don’t know shit Linux and have never had to look at anything like that on my steam deck.
I know bash and am very familiar with Linux and it has never mattered one iota as far as my steam deck is concerned.